Liechtenstein

Despite all the warnings we'd gotten that there's absolutely nothing to see in Liechtenstein, we decided to go anyway, just because there's something that's still novel about being able to hop onto a train and travel an hour and a half away to a whole new country. And it will never be easier than it is now for us to visit: travelers between Liechtenstein and Switzerland don't need passports, and Liechtenstein uses the Swiss franc for their currency.

When we were reading up on the country, planning our day trip, Dennis noted that Liechtenstein is sort of like the Delaware of Europe.  Similarly tiny (at about 60 square miles), the nation has about as many corporations as it does people, since countries all over the world set up letterbox companies there to take advantage of their very low business tax rate.  They've got a few other things going for them, too. They're the world's largest producer of false teeth and sausage casings.

Ages ago, when we first talked about visiting Liechtenstein, I thought it might be funny to go to what appears to be Liechtenstein's only amusement park, Riddam City. "Adventurers can immerse themselves in the Wild West. In Ridamm City, original covered wagons and life-size replicas of horses conjure up that unique prairie atmosphere. Features country music, camp fires, and a tepee." A Wild West theme part in Liechtenstein? How could that not be fantastic? Dennis just stared at me as I displayed the website. Luckily for him, their season ended two weeks ago.

Dennis agreed that we should probably find something amusing for the kids during the trip.  But the only other thing we could find was a miniature golf course, the only one in the country: "Who is best at hitting the small ball into the hole...fun for the whole family!" When we told the kids our plan, Ella quipped "So I guess that a regular golf course would be too big for Liechtenstein?"

My travel companion

With our shaky plan in place, we caught our train, an Austrian-run one, bound eventually for Vienna.  Because Swiss trains have priority on all of Switzerland's tracks, foreign trains usually run slow, and this one was no exception.  But it was a wonderful train to be stuck on: the east of Switzerland is simply stunning, all jagged mountain peaks and crystal lakes, dotted with 12th century castles.

Vaduz Castle, home of a real live prince and princess

We travelled to Vaduz, the capital of Liechtenstein, overlooked by the castle of the Prince of Liechtenstein. (The country is a constitutional monarchy.) Revenues from false teeth are such that Hans-Adam II is the sixth most wealthy national leader in the world, with a family fortune of $7.6 billion. For all that wealth, the capital city was very unassuming: it looked no different from one of Switzerland's quieter towns.

Nothing says "America" like corn and bacon

But first things first: lunch. we looked at the city's eight restaurants (one of which is an extremely popular McDonalds) and chose a kid-friendly Italian place, where we found that prices are akin to Switzerland's as well. But we got to try Liechtenstein beer.

We bought the kids bouncy balls out of a vending machine after lunch, and those kept the kids occupied for our walk around Vaduz, all three blocks of it.  We noticed a disproportionate number of paces advertising the sale of stamps, as well as a Postage Stamp Museum: apparently it's a popular tourist destination for philatelists.

But since the stamps weren't issued by the Migros grocery chain, my kids weren't interested. And when Ella somehow managed to lose her bouncy ball in a tree, we decided Vaduz didn't have anything else for us. We went looking for that mini golf course, to see who would be the best at putting the small ball in the hole.

After a short bus ride and a long walk past farm yards, we finally came to the recreation complex that we'd read about, only to find it closed.  Our walk wasn't without its charms, though: the kids were amused to find that someone decorated the trees and utility poles along the route, knitting and crocheting them little cozies for the coming winter.  And we spent a couple of minutes at the skate park, with the boys gasping while watching the kids practice.

The kids were less amused when Dennis and I had decided we'd seen all that Liechtenstein had had to offer, and that it would be best to hurry, to try to catch the bus that would get us to the station in time for the next train to Zürich. Unfortunately, that meant a fast dash uphill, with Ella and Alex lagging behind but doing their best.  As Dennis hailed the bus and I urged the kids on, I heard Ella cry "I can't!" and Alex call to her: "You have to!"

As I waved my panting children into the bus, I decided that my most vivid memories of this year will be of my small children, racing as fast as their little legs could move, to catch public transportation.